Thoughts on the Lockdown

We are now on Day 6 of the lockdown.   It has been an interesting week. A mix of good and bad, of optimism and despair, anger and hope. I know a lot of people who have struggled with depression and staying positive. They may be far from their families, they may be struggling withContinue reading “Thoughts on the Lockdown”

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Finding Peace in Silent Empty Hours

It’s a four hour drive to Kumarakom, a sleepy little town by the backwaters, dominated by resorts. Kottayam is a short distance away, and there is apparently some sightseeing to be done there. The roads of Kottayam remind me of Goa, low-rise colourful houses, with wide fields lined with rice patties, and peppered with clumpsContinue reading “Finding Peace in Silent Empty Hours”

Kerala Food Highlight: Grandma’s Cafe

I hear a lot about a Thekkady-based joint called Grandma’s Cafe, so on my second (and last) evening there, I finally decide to give it a try. This place is an institution, and is known for it’s mix of Continental, non-Kerala Indian, and Kerala cuisine, and being a favourite of travellers. I found it inContinue reading “Kerala Food Highlight: Grandma’s Cafe”

The Wonders of Kalaripayattu

The kalaripayattu performance that follows the kathakali is nothing short of spectacular. The practitioners move like dancers, their bodies a combination of ridiculous strength and flexibility. Kalaripayattu is an ancient martial art that originated in Kerala, with roots that date back to the Sangam period literature (3rd century BC – 2nd century AD). Every soldierContinue reading “The Wonders of Kalaripayattu”

Discovering Kathakali

Although I had originally planned to see the Kathakali performance in Kumarakom, I find out that it’s difficult to organise, or at least my hotel says so. Fortunately I have the evening free in Thekkady, so I decide that I might as well. I glance in my guide book, and it recommends the Mudra CulturalContinue reading “Discovering Kathakali”

My Jaipur Auto Rickshaw Adventure

As I leave my last Jaipur Literature Festival event, I get a frantic phone call from my friend Shampa. We had come to the city together, along with her family and had split for the morning to pursue our respective interests. She tells me they are stuck in traffic and cannot come get me onContinue reading “My Jaipur Auto Rickshaw Adventure”